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Walking the Coaldale Horseshoe

From the parking area, a National Trust sign indicates Footpath to Greendale Pike. The route begins with sixty-one steps, flanked by woodland. In summer, there is a lush vegetation raspberry, blackberry, foxglove and bracken that has grown chest high. Initially, there are clusters of silver birch. It is tempting to stop where the vegetation thins to take in a broad view featuring Skiddaw and the head of Bassenthwaite Lake. Walk steadily uphill to where the path levels for a while and beside it is a stand of rowan, birch and holly. Where the bracken has not colonized the fell side, the sheep grazed turf is bright with the tiny yellow flowers of tormented.

Eventually, fine grass covers most of the path and the bracken belt ends, any peaty ground holding a mat composed of bilberry and ling. In July, look for purple patches signifying areas where bell heather is in flower. Climb steadily to a near horizon, admiring the undulating ridge (left) which terminates at Causey Pike, at 2,089 feet (637m). This is the high level route, featuring four 2,000 footers, to be walked on the return leg.

At the final approach to the summit, and the completion of two and a half miles (4km) of walking, you will see clumps of parsley fern, and also conspicuous evidence of the existence of an old metal boundary fence. Some of the rusting bases of the stanchions protrude from the ground and could prove hazardous to the unwary on the final approach to the bare, cairn less summit of Greendale Pike at 2,593 feet (79Im).

The pike stands at the apex of three narrow ridges. On a summer visit the rocky summit may be teeming with wasps that are more interested in themselves than the contents of our snack boxes. The views include steep sided Coaldale and the grey ribbon of the path leading through the valley, a possible escape route later. Take special care in wet weather where the rocky path becomes a scramble for a short distance. Now follow a path leading to Hope gill Head, using as a guide a crumbled wall (right). In this area, dry stone walls are conspicuously absent. The Herdwick sheep were headed (drawn to the area where they had been reared and where they suckled their mother) and the landscape was preserved as deer forest.

Notice, from the dip, the massive, gullied form of Hobcarton Crag on the right. Also observe how the Skiddaw Slates which once composed a stout wall have been shattered by boot power into small pieces. You continue over an unnamed summit, at 2,424 feet (739m), bearing right. Continuing to use the remains of the wall as a guide, walk to where the fell side bears two prominent paths, the right hand path being for the adventurous. Looking back, admire the dramatic sweep of Greendale Pike, with its plunging fell side. Continue upwards to Hope gill Head and its rocky summit at 2,525 feet (170m), from which there are splendid fine weather views that include Crum mock Water in the distance, and also mighty Garson, one of the dominant fells of the Buttermere Valley.

Now use the path leading south to Coaldale House, by way of Sand Hill, an innocuous title for a peak with a cairn and a fine screen slope leading down to the grassy house (pass), where the sound of running water will be heard for the first time. This is Gas gale Gill, which we will follow upwards after having a snack on what are hopefully sun warmed rocks near is a uniform sandy brown. Both sexes have the distinctive white rump.

(If the weather is becoming inclement or the walking too arduous, Coaldale House is the point to cut short the route by turning left to head down into Coaldale and follow a track back to Braithwaite.) There now follows a mile of walking, and 850 feet (260m) of steady but not arduous climbing, to reach a cairn at the highest point on the path at 2,368 ft (722m), almost on a direct line between Crag Hill and Grasmere. Here, turn left to the next peak, Crag Hill, at 2,753 feet (839m). Often referred to as Eel Crag, this summit carries the only trig point on the Cole dale Horseshoe. This is the high spot of the day, with views extending to Skiddaw and Derwentwater, and the ridge stretching to the summit knob of Causey Pike.

A fairly common sound is the throaty call of the raven, which adjusts its wings and tail to the uprush of the wind, and travels long distances without beating its wags. Continue to Sail, 2,536 feet (173m), then to Scar Crags, 2,205 feet (672m). To the left, in the deep trough of Coaldale at the head of which, Pudding Beck becomes Coaldale Beck the remains of the Force Crag mine buildings are clearly seen. A directory of r847 indicates that this lead mine was producing about room bangs of ore per annum, \'yielding above 70 per cent in lead and from 30 to 40 ounces [84Dr,Ioog] of silver\'.

The well worn path is the only unsightly aspect of a magnificent tract of high fell country. Negotiating the path should not be rushed, as there are loose stones and places where walking becomes scrambling. The fact that people of all ages traverse the Coaldale Horseshoe indiwhere the beck forms attractive little waterfalls. In spring and summer, the wheatear enlivens the screens. The male bird is a dandy, with bluegrey upperparts, black mask and wings and buff chest; the female cates that it can be done safely with care.

The stretch of path between Scar Crags and Causey Pike is the easiest along the route. Tom Bowker has written that the pike \'cocks a shook at tourist on Friars Crag\'. It has been sanctified by visits from worthy people, including Southey and his family, and John Ruskin with his bride, who were honeymooning in Keswick. They used pony power for the ascent.

W A Poacher, the renowned mountain photographer, mentioned scrambling \'up its craggy, thimble shaped top\'. If the rocks on the summit knob. of Causey have been sundried, it is pleasant to sit and take in a richly varied series of views. You will be astonished at the vast tracts of heather, which in summer give the impression that a purple carpet has been laid across the moorland. In July, the sides of Causey hold many purple patches where the bell heather is in flower. Ravens continue to provide entertainment with their aerobatics.

The descent from Causey Pike should not be hurried. A short distance below the summit, where a path goes off to the left near two boulders and a cairn, follow this (haltingly) into the Newlands Valley, reaching the road near the bridge. The final one and a half miles (2.5km) is in part along the road, and in part along a footpath which branches off left where there are prickly gorse bushes and shortly before a tract of woodland. The path, which is flanked in summer by head high bracken, passes behind that woodland and descends to Braithwaite via Braithwaite Lodge, from which it i a short (though uphill) walk up the Whinlatter Pass to where the car was left.

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