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Walking Hindscarth, Dale Head and High Spy

The Newlands Valley has a secretive air. The main road extends purposefully from Braithwaite to Newlands House, beyond which lies Buttermere. Elsewhere, there is a pattern of small, winding, hedge bordered roads in a lush, fan shaped valley, flanked by fells that seem to leap straight up from the meadows. Cross the bridge over the beck and open a gate on the left hand side to continue along a road between dry stone walls.

Notice, beside a field entrance (right), a gate stoop consisting of a slab of slate with holes, into which lengths of wood were slotted to provide the gate itself Newlands Church, the attractive white painted building on the right, is immaculately maintained. In the graveyard is the last resting place of Ike Wilson of Gill brow, who was one of the last of the old style Lakeland farmers. His son continues the family association with fell going sheep, the Gill brow stock of 400 having their heave (grazing) on the fell named Robinson, two miles (3km) to the southwest. At Newlands, the attendant school was closed, but the premises are well used, not least to provide light refreshments to visitors at prescribed times.

Bear left for Low Snab Farm. En route, notice the old oaks on the left. In summer, the foxglove, its bell like flowers having the hue of regal purple, adorns the sides of walls. You will see harebells on dry banks. A carved notice on a wooden gate relates that this is not an official right of way, but is available for walkers and cyclists (who have dismounted) through the courtesy of the landowner. The farmhouse is typical of the Lakes, being sturdy and whitewashed, the austere lines being softened in summer by some hanging baskets. A dog makes a token objection but is well tethered.

Beyond the farmyard, bear right to gain a well walked path that runs close to a wall on which, in spring and summer, you might see a wheat ear, a small bird visitor with a prominent white rump (hence its name), and a 'checking' call which sounds like two stones being hit together. The path climbs steadily up Scope End, through an area bedecked by bracken, a common fern that is a bright green in summer and discolors in autumn to a bronze hue which it retains throughout the winter. There is evidence on Scope End and across the valley to your left of mining activity, for copper or lead. Choose to walk where there is a definite path and avoid, where possible, areas of rock, especially in poor weather, when they might be slippery. There are several 'false summits', in the sense that the near horizon to which you climb turns out to have yet another beyond it. The bracken gives way to ling, the commonest of the heather family, and in July you will see purple patches where the bell heather is in flower. Its blossoms are like tiny lanterns. Patches of blaeberry (bilberry) yield fruit in midsummer, but its collection is a tedious occupation.

As the view opens up, notice (right) the knob that is Causey Pike , at 2,089 feet (637m) in height. Half 'ght is the grass covered summit of Robinson, at 2,417 feet (737m), with a conspicuous ridge leading to it. The ridge has crags and fan shaped screens and, though inviting, is for seasoned fell walkers only, for when the final climb develops, negotiating the rocks calls for agile people with good heads for steepness and heights. The fell takes its name from Richard Robinson, who bought it in Tudor times. Ahead of us on the Scope End ridge, and all to be visited, are the massive forms of Handcart (2,385 feet), with Dale Head (2,473 feeth53m) to the left and, across the deep little valley, the escarpment surmounted by High Spy (2,143 feet/653m) and Maiden Moor (1,887 feet/576m). Pause as often as you will to look back on the verdant Newlands Valley and, forming a backdrop, the ponderous forms of Skiddaw and Blencathra. The path runs for a short distance at the side of the ridge.

On the last stretch to the summit of Hindscarth, there will be the clink of stones underfoot and heaps of rock which are revealed at close quarters to be not so much cairns as Shaped shelters, the entrance being away from the prevailing wind, which is westerly. Two types of sheep graze the heights. One is the white-faced Herdwick, which when young has black or chocolate brown wool; and the other is the Swaledale, with a dark face, white muzzle and grey wool. The summit of Hindscarth is a spectacular viewpoint for the fells of Northern Lakeland Skiddaw, Blencathra, Helvetian, Scafell Pike, Great Gable and Pillar.

The path makes a gradual descent towards Dale Head in an area where the commonest birds in spring are the skylark, which has a nondescript plumage but an uplifting trilling call; and the meadow pipit, also streaky brown, and looking like a shuttlecock as it descends with stiffened wings and tail during its song flight.Bear left, then left again, following Hindscarth Edge to the summit of Dale Head. En route, you will see the land sweeping down to the head of the Buttermere Valley. In summer, nearby slopes are green with grass and bracken, contrasting with the bare crags of Hoister. A change in the hue of the bracken, as the fern dies back, gives the area the copper hue.

Your route goes from Dale Head to Dale Head Tarn on a good path and, after the chance of a respite at a sheepfold, you turn left to head north on the ascent to the summit of High Spy at 2,143 feet (653m). From the improved cairn, there is a gradual descent across Narrow Moor to Maiden Moor, passing Blea Crag on the right, from which there is an unsuspected route down to Grange via High White Rake. Here may be found stag horn moss which is like deer horn in 'velvet', a hairy skin that protects it when growing. The ascent to the summit of Maiden Moor is only 100 feet (30m). The derivation of the name Maiden Moor is as baffling as the exact position of the summit is to the layman. People do not tend to dawdle on Maiden Moor, for there is a restricted view.

Continue to the beginning of a descent to House Gate where, dramatically, the dome of Cat Bells appears to view. Around, all is beauty. The slopes dip steeply to the shores of Derwentwater. In between is bracken, burnished in autumn, and lower down a tract of rich woodland. The descent to House Gate is thrilling, especially if you keep to the eastern flank from where Derwentwater appears so close it might be possible to dive into it. House Gate is not a gate at all, 'hause' meaning a pass or way through. In this case, a house links Majesty to Little Town and it offers a speedy descent.

As you turn left, towards Little Town, spoil heaps indicate the site of the former Yewthwaite Mine. Do not be tempted to enter any mine entrances you may encounter. In its heyday, which was the eighteenth century, Yewthwaite produced lead and iron pyrites, the mine owners having an annual profit of about £3,000. Little Town is now in sight. Regain its only highway by descending adjacent to a windbreak of larches, arriving at a gate where the road is rejoined. Turn left, to Chapel Bridge and the place where the car was parked.

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