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Barflords and Whinlatter walks

On leaving the car park at Barflords, you will see a distinctive Victorian letterbox set in a wall. Cross the road and walk briefly on a byroad to where a step stile (right) gives access to an area below screens. High up is the so called Bishop of Barf, a sixteen-foot  high stone that stands in white-washed splendour, and close by a path is a second white stone, known as the Clerk .

After seeing the Clerk, return to the byroad and continue, crossing the bed of Beck stones Gill which may, after prolonged rain, be a tricky operation for anyone wishing to keep their feet dry. (One visitor drew plastic bags over his feet and shuffled through the water.) A signpost, right, indicates another step stile, which is the route to be followed to the summit of Barf (1,536 feet/468m).

There begins an unremitting climb of over 800 feet (245m) through woodland owned by Forest Enterprise, in which the tree species include larch and birch. The moist climate and proximity of the beck have led to many of the trees being adorned by lichen; the mossy ground sports a variety of ferns.

Glimpsed between the leafless trees of winter is the Bishop Rock, with its prominent whitewashed stone. It is related that in 1783 the newly appointed bishop of Derry was travelling to Whitehaven to take passage to his diocese in Ireland when he decided to break his journey at the Swan at Thornthwaite. Over a few drinks, he had a wager with fellow guests that he could ride his pony to the top of Barf and onto Lords Seat. The bishop reached the rock now known as Bishop Rock a feat in itself when, as related, the pony stumbled and fell. Both man and animal died and, it is said, were buried at the foot of the scree. The Clerk stone presumably marks the spot.

The landlord of the inn had the rocks whitewashed he paid the painter five shillings (2SP), plus a pint of beer and the custom of keeping it gleaming white has continued to this day, the 1987 whitewash being performed by the Royal Engineer Corps from Cheshire, who had been commemorating the 200th anniversary of its foundation. Higher up the fell side, you may encounter some toppled conifers. If possible, clamber over or under them rather than making a messy bypass on steep ground. Where you break free of tree cover, there is a short descent to the beck, beyond which a well defined path leads through an area festooned with ling and bilberry to the summit of Barf. This is an outcrop of slaty rock with a sprinkling of small pieces of rock left by visitors to an area where the ground is mainly sheep cropped turf or moorland.

Now follow a well defined path that leads westwards through a shallow declivity to begin a steady ascent of Lords Seat, at 1,811 feet. What begins as a firm path becomes somewhat sloppy in wet weather. The view to the north takes in some of the blue hills of Scotland. On the ascent of Lords Seat, you will see pieces of rusty metal sticking from the ground. The reason is apparent at the summit, where stands a fragment of a former iron and wire boundary fence.

This heathery landscape was once the resort of many red grouse, but birds are now scarce. Roe deer are sometimes viewed in the open. The roe is a relatively 'small deer, its coat a glorious foxy red in summer, but otherwise brownish grey. Only the buck (male) has antlers, ! which are quite small. Head south from the summit to join Natty I a good track that takes you to the edge of Whinlatter Forest, a step stile and, beyond, an even better path, one of several in the area. When felling activity takes place, the area is isolated and notices give clear instructions as to how to avoid it. There are clear weather views to the west (right) of Lorton vale, which is drained by the River Cocker. As you are not starting from the visitor centre, and may not have a map and walking guide, you should be guided by numbered posts, 6, 3 and 2 bringing you to a splendid viewpoint for Grisedale Pike and its neighboring fells. One of several paths leads down the hill to the visitor centre.

Children are attracted to an adventure playground. At the approaches to the shop and cafe is an artificial badger sett, big enough to admit humans (with care) and containing recesses holding badgers of various sizes. The exit is a short distance from the point of entry. The Whinlatter area is overspread with conifer trees. Here, in December 1919, were planted the first trees of the first State forest in Lakeland. The area selected was the Hospital, so called because it was owned by Greenwich Hospital, which received the land from the Crown. It had been forfeited by the earl of Derwentwater who had supported the Jacobi rebellion.

Now leave the visitor centre where there is a sign indicating the Coast-to-Coast cycle track and, just beyond, a white bungalow. Not very far beyond this structure, turn right on a path colour-marked blue and it will lead you through a forested area to a road where, keeping to the right, you come to a concrete bridge. You have entered a once secluded valley, down which roars the Comb Beck. A diversion, beginning just over the bridge, with a left turn, leads you to attractive dams. You will have to jump over the outflow of one of them. A memo-rial seat offers the chance of a rest.

Return to cross the concrete bridge, and bear right onto a path that begins in an innocuous way but eventually enters a steep, wooded valley with a roaring beck. If in doubt, ensure that you have the beck on your right. The valley, once dubbed Seldom Seen, was formerly an industrial area. An impressive man-made feature is a partly demolished dam of huge proportions. You will pass close to the entrance to a lead mine admit, or horizontal passage (to which iron bars have been fixed, a deterrent to entry). The mining industry was at its most active in the Thornthwaite area during the nineteenth century. Draining the mines was made possible using pumps operated by water power hence the need for dams in the little valley.The path leads out of the valley at Thornthwaite, where many of the houses are painted either white or cream. Now turn left to follow the road back to the Swan Hotel which dates back to 1678 and the car park.

The route, which is way marked with yellow arrows, is indicated by a sign headed 'Private Land', and gives Bog House and Dancing Gate as alternative destinations. Cross a field and pass through a gate, turning right along a farm track just north of How Farm that heads for Dancing Gate. The flatland between the lakes, which tends to be sloppy and sheep-puddled in winter, does not distract from a view of lofty fells. Continue along the track for half a mile (800m) until reaching another signpost, ignoring the route to Bog House and continuing to Dancing Gate. Head for a wooden post that has been daubed by white paint. Then bear left, towards Dodd (the huge wooded outlier of Skiddaw that rises grandly beyond the river). Soon you will see the twin of the 'Private Land' notice already observed. The diversion from the riverbank is at an end.

The path leads to a cluster of farm buildings. Metal gates must be opened and closed, and the river crossed by a metal bridge of the Bailey type, leading to a tree fringed lane that culminates at the AS9I. Cross the road, to pass a cluster of buildings known as Dancing Gate, to reach the start of a byroad on the right with a and some venerable oak trees will be seen during the walk.

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